Opening image: The lead runners head up Skennars Head, on their way north, running for clean rivers. Photo Liam O’Brien

The Rivers Run: First with blackwater, then with hope

The smell floated up onto the plateau where I slept. It woke me in the darkness of the early hours, a suffocating scent of death. We’d returned to the Northern Rivers the day before from an annual jaunt to Tasmania. Cyclone Alfred had just blown itself out. The flooding and damaging winds had subsided… although the onslaught of social media clips from two days of perfect Kirra tubes was still raging.

 

The initial relief as Cyclone Alfred weakened and headed off inland was replaced with the thought of what comes next; when the waters recede and the rivers of my homelands run jet black. The Alfred floods caused an ecological disaster on a scale not seen since the early two-thousands. ‘Unprecedented’ is a word used far too often these days, but this ghastly phenomenon very much had precedent. It wasn’t the first time it had occurred, and until we fix the vast drainage networks of our rivers’ floodplain backswamps, it won’t be the last.

 

The Richmond River again found itself at the epicentre. Toxic blackwater drained from the swamplands into the river; the ecological cost somewhere in the hundreds of thousands of dead fish and other river life. The fish kill in the Richmond was the third worst in its history, surpassed only by the 2001 and 2008 flood events. I spent much of the blackwater event monitoring water quality as part of my day job. Witnessing a river dying in slow motion is an experience I would not recommend to anyone. The river was on its knees.

 

I first spoke to Dave Rastovich a few weeks after the rivers turned black. He’d read an open letter I’d written to the Premier of NSW and tracked me down through mutual friends. Like many other water people across the region, Dave had been struck down with a nasty infection as a direct result of floodwaters laden with chemicals, blackwater and rotting organic matter.

 

Dave wanted to talk about an idea he’d had brewing for a while. A journey from one river to another, from the Richmond to the Brunswick. An opportunity to pull a bunch of people together to challenge ourselves physically and mentally, all in the name of the health of our rivers. And so, The Rivers Run was born.

Dave Rastovich with some words of encouragement as the Rivers Run crew gathers at the starting line in Ballina. Photo Liam O’Brien

Word of mouth spread about the Rivers Run, and a group of committed, concerned people from right along the coast put themselves on call. The event was slated to take place on the first weekend in August, when the weather would gift us a southerly flow; a kind tailwind to help us all on our way north from the Richmond to the Bruns.

The group slowly grew in numbers. Stories were shared about people’s relationships with their home waters. The dire state of our river systems were discussed, and plans were hatched about how to tackle the 46km self-powered journey.

RUN Richmond River to Lennox Head, 10km
PADDLE Lennox Head to Broken Head, 11km
RUN/PADDLE Broken Head to Wategoes, 9km
SWIM Wategoes to Byron Bay SLSC, 2.3km
RUN/PADDLE Byron Bay SLSC to Brunswick River, 13km

One leg wouldn’t start until the last person had arrived from the previous leg. It wasn’t a race but instead a collective effort. An opportunity for personal challenge. Aptly, the motto for the day was ‘no one left behind!’ Meanwhile, a committed bunch volunteered to run ground crew and keep tabs on everyone. A local fisherman ran safety in his boat for the paddlers and swimmers.

The paddlers scored a bluebird day to be out on the water. Photo Liam O’Brien

On Saturday, August 30 a small crowd assembled on Nyangbul Jagun in Ballina, where the Richmond – a river that drains over 7000 square kilometres of the Bundjalung and Githabul Country – meets the sea. People with a vast range of backgrounds, interests and skillsets stood together, connected by water, ready to tackle a day of adventure.

Dave borrowed a line he’d learned from the Slabb family of the Tweed River, that to walk Country is to know it; to understand it in a new way. As all of us would learn over the course of the day, the physical challenge was only one facet of the Rivers Run. Ultimately it was a more nuanced understanding of this place – and our place within it – that revealed itself during the day as we ran, paddled, and swam.

The day delivered clear skies and beautiful blue water, but Country had gifted us an extra challenge: a strong north-westerly wind promised to build throughout the day. We’d be running/paddling/swimming straight into it.

The only traffic out on the water was headed in the other direction. Photo Liam O’Brien

Joined by a few local running clubs, the group set off for the first leg amid a light breeze and a group filled to the brim with energy and a few energising snacks from Craig the Byron Banana Man. The keen runners cruised through the first leg, admiring whales breaching and brahminy kites soaring overhead. The ocean had decided it was the day to put on a show. The spectacle continued as the group traversed the coastline, crossing the many small tannin-soaked creeks and lagoons that flow into the ocean between these two big rivers, often remaining out of sight and out of mind.

Paddling past the beaches south of Broken Head I shared a special moment with a large bird of prey. I watched as the resident white-bellied sea eagle weaved its way around the headlands, diving down along the beaches before banking high in the sky to effortlessly glide over the next rocky outcrop.

The paddlers shooting the gap between the Three Sisters, Broken Head. Photo Liam O’Brien

As the Rivers Run crew rounded the continent’s most easterly point at Walgun (Cape Byron), we pointed ourselves directly into a headwind that had been slowly strengthening throughout the day. By the time we all set off with goggles to swim across the famous bay, the chop made for a difficult swim. I found myself struggling for rhythm, stuck in a trough when I thought I was in a peak, gaining a giant mouthful of seawater for my troubles.

By the time, the group made it to the Byron Bay Surf Club, the wind was whipping through wetsuits and dropping core temperatures. A hardy group of seasoned runners followed the yawning bend of beach through Tyagarah and kept their legs moving to reach the Bruns under their own power. Many – me included – decided to forgo the final paddle leg across the bay into a 50km/hr headwind and complete the final leg behind the wheel. Dave meanwhile made the crossing with another paddler named Elliot – later recounting that a giant tuna had propelled itself from the water right in front of them – and when they finally arrived as the first paddlers into the Brunswick River, the sky had been painted a purple-orange as the sun set over Mount Chincogan. The river shimmered in the golden hour.

The Byron Banana Man, unconcerned about his lack of training in the lead-up to the day, was the final paddler to arrive on the beach on the south side of the Brunswick River. After requesting a cold Coopers Green and a few slices of pizza, he made his way up the beach and dropped his paddleboard on the ground. “Clean oceans and clean rivers for all!” He declared to the crowd on the beach who whistled and applauded his arrival.

Opening image: The lead runners head up Skennars Head, on their way north, running for clean rivers. Photo Liam O’Brien

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