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Maxime Turgeon


Montreal, Canada


Chamonix, France

Canadian Maxime Turgeon grew up in the suburbs of Montreal. He discovered climbing in the gym first, and within a season had progressed from traditional rock routes to ice climbing. A taste of alpine climbing on the Wapta Traverse was enough to hook Maxime and a few seasons later he was climbing what he calls the best route of his life, Spice Factory on Mount Bradley.

Career Highlights

  • Ascent of the Canadian Direct on the South Face of Denali, Alaska
  • Ascent of the Moonflower Buttress on the North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska
  • Ascent of Deprivation on the North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska
  • Ascent of Exocet Chimney (6a WI5 MI3), Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia
  • Ascent of Supercanalata, Fitz Roy, Patagonia
  • Solo first ascent of Farol Peak, Pakistan
  • First ascent of The Ogre's Son, Southeast Buttress of Baintha Kabata, Pakistan

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